Recipe: Cantonese Stuffed Bitter Gourd

 by Justin Sato

 
 

Q&A with Chef Justin Sato, Ikoi No Kai (Portland, OR)

Ikoi No Kai, meaning “a place of rest,” is a beloved community lunch program founded in 1979 by Portland’s Japanese American elders. Operating out of Epworth United Methodist Church, it brings people together over homestyle Japanese meals prepared with care by volunteer chefs, celebrating food, culture, and connection across generations.

Which bitter gourd type are you most familiar with? 
I’m familiar with the smoother light green, warty white, warty dark green types, we use them for different purposes. The rough skin white and green we call Okinawan bitter melon because we used to get that from Okinawa. 

What name did you use for bitter gourd in your home?
We call it “goya” or “nigagori” (bitter gourd)

What are your childhood memories of bitter gourd?
I loved eating it at the Chinese restaurants when we’d go out and eating it prepared at home. I remember cooking with my grandma and learning how to reduce some of the bitterness and blending it with other foods to match the flavors. 

How do you use it now?
I cook it at home for my family, mostly in a champuru which is a stir-fry. But I also pickle the end cuts with other vegetables. 

What dish do you love it in?
Stuffed bitter melon with fermented black bean. I think it’s one of my favorite ways to eat it, and one of the first preparations I recall having when I was really young. 

Cantonese Stuffed Bitter Gourd

This is one of my favorite ways to eat bitter gourds. The bitter gourd absorbs all the juices from the seasonings and meat while it steams in the skillet. It’s a good introduction to bitter gourd because of all the strong flavors in the dish.

Ingredients

Stuffing

  • ¾ lb ground pork

  • ¼ lb minced shrimp

  • 3 tablespoons fermented black bean paste

  • 1tablespoon sake

  • 1 tablespoon minced garlic

  • 1 teaspoon minced ginger

  • 1 teaspoon oyster sauce

  • White pepper

  • Pinch of salt

  • 2 lb bitter gourd

For Cooking

  • Vegetable oil

  • Corn starch

  • Sake or xiaoxing 

  • Salt

Process

Prepare the filling

In a mixing bowl, combine the ground pork, minced shrimp, and all seasonings. Add white pepper and salt to taste. Mix well until evenly blended.

Prepare the bitter gourd

Cut the bitter gourd into 2–3 inch rings and remove all the seeds, creating hollow tubes.
Parboil the rings in salted water for 2–3 minutes, then drain and let cool.

Stuff the gourd

Lightly dust the inside of each ring with cornstarch. Fill each one firmly with the pork and shrimp mixture.

Cook

Heat a tall, lidded skillet over medium-high heat and coat the bottom with oil.
Place the stuffed bitter gourds in the pan, standing upright with one open end facing down. Lower the heat to medium and pour in ¼ cup of Shaoxing wine. Cover and cook for 5–6 minutes.
Flip each piece over, add 2 tablespoons of water, cover again, and continue cooking until the filling is fully cooked through.

Serve

Spoon the pan reduction over the bitter gourds as a sauce. Serve hot with chili oil and steamed rice.